Why Did I Go Natural? A Simple Answer...

Hello Beauties!

As many of you already know I did the  big chop (BC) at the beginning of this year. I get asked a lot why on earth would I do something seemingly so drastic. No one really believed me that I was actually serious "this time." To answer your question, my short answer is duh, it was the obvious next step. The long answer is....

How it all began

As an international student living on my own in Oklahoma, finding a black hairdresser who could "do hair good" AND was affordable was next to impossible. As a college student hair maintenance was a lifestyle I simply could not afford but still desired. I found myself making many trips to the local beauty supply stores buying relaxers in a box and "how to", "hair care", "black hair" were keywords that I googled all too often. 

Eventually, I came across multiple hair forums and became gradually interested in this healthy hair journey fad. It was a new world! I was completely intrigued and became completely invested in my hair journey. I went through the phases, became a product junkie, obsessed over labels, banned silicones and mineral oils, deep conditioned weekly, trimmed quarterly, joined youtube  and experimented even more. My hair grew and thickened and I loved every minute of it. 

 True to form, I became bored and colored it, cut it, then cut it some more. Throughout my HHJ I had very little tolerance for the "natural hair nazis" as they were called the blogs (we'll discuss that later). However, as I matured, I started toying with the idea of "going natural" for simply no other reason than I was bored or so I thought. Regardless,  the actual thought frightened me. I was very afraid, I had so many what ifs, and many detractors that the actual step took me quite a while.  Admittedly it took me three tries but one day I did it....

AND NOW I HAVE REGRETS  

I regret that I questioned myself. I regret that I listened to people, I regret that I waited so long! 

I AM OBSESSED! 

 I'm obsessed with my hair, i'm obsessed with my curls,  i'm obsessed with my afrocentric look. I get asked if I texturized my hair a lot and I proudly answer no. I have  taken the same principles I learned with relaxed hair on my natural hair journey and I look forward to this new phase. 

The day I decided to big chop and actually went through with it was such a moment of empowerment that I struggle to describe. You have to experience it to truly understand. I finally did the big chop and I regret not doing it sooner! 

So why did I do it? 

It's all apart of my journey. I did it partly because I wanted to prove the naysayers wrong, I did it because I loved the look, I did it because IT FELT RIGHT. I choose not to be philosophical about it but I can say this experience is truly grounding. Will I ever relax again? Never say never, but at this moment I have no desire to do so. 

What a braid out! Thank your satin strips!

Hi Beauties,

Have you all but given up on braid out because your curls are never as defined as you'd want? Is your hair not thick enough? Not long enough and you always end up with a failed braid out? Well worry no more! The use of satin strips should put your worries to rest. A few years ago I came across this technique from ZanandRob and Nina Pruitt and suffice it to say, the use of satin strips for my braid out have made my life easier. My go to braid out consists of two jumbo braids that yield volumnous  curls the next day for easy styling. The pineapple method also makes this style last a few days. I especially love this hair style because it blends the two textures quite easily and is making the transition process a little simpler.

What will you need?

• Satin strips (cut to a length and width that you desire) 
• Water based moisturizer 
• Spray bottle filled with your favorite liquid (to dampen hair) 
• Oil (for sealing) 
• Silk/satin scarf
• Hair ties/clip

Over Night Procedure 

• Part hair into four sections and separate using clips/hair ties
• Moisturize and seal each section
• Lightly dampen hair  
• Braid hair in desired style incorporating satin strips  
• Once done, cover hair with satin/silk scarf

The Take Down

• Its best to place your favorite oil on your fingertips during the take down process 
• Gently remove the satin strips and separate the curls 
• Proceed to style your hair as desired 

(Pictures coming soon)

Do you have and questions or tips? Feel free to share below.

Until next time. HHJ! 

Let's Talk Shampoo

Hi Beauties,

You may be wondering shampoo? Hmm...that is fairly simple! Wet hair, squeeze shampoo into hands, lather, rinse, repeat, voila! NOT!

In reality, there are a few things to consider including the kind of shampoo, shampoo techniques, and frequency. Let's break this down shall we?

To Shampoo or not to Shampoo? 

This is an ongoing debate in the hair community. Some shampoo from once a week to once a month even twice a year while doing condition washes (co wash) in between.  Others have migrated to cleansing conditioners and have completely done away with shampoos altogether.  My answer, it depends.

Choosing how often you shampoo should depend on the product use. Do you use heavy silicones and slab on the moisturizer and oils several times a week? If yes, you may consider using shampoo at least once per week especially if you use use heavy silicones. These can weigh the hair down and cause a significant amount of product build up over time. If you are light on products  then you may be able to get away with shampoo washes every 2 weeks or once a month with regular co-washes.

Shampoo Types

All shampoos are not created equally and vary in their cleansing capabilities. For instance, there are sulfate free shampoos that do mild cleansing and are good for weekly use (my favorites). There are also clarifying shampoos that are good for bi weekly uses and even monthly uses for removing excessive product build up and chlorine after a day at the pool. These are usually stripping and be used with caution. For even deeper cleaning there are chelating shampoos that remove mineral deposits along with product build up. These are particularly helpful for those who cleanse with hard water and use kit relaxers. Finally, there are neutralizing shampoos that lowers the pH of the hair and bring it to a neutral ph7, essentially stopping the relaxer process in its tracks.

The burning question  is which one should I use? The answer, it all depends on the intended outcome. In general beware of sulfate shampoos, these are the most damaging to our hair types because of its stripping tendencies. These shampoos leaves the hair and scalp dry and should not be used too often.

Shampoo Techniques

The most common mistake we make is to  apply shampoo all over the hair, bundle the hair on top of heads and wash vigorously. Rinse, repeat until squeaky clean. Essentially, this is the hair's version of overkill. A quarter size amount of shampoo applied to the scalp and a gentle massage used only by the pads of our fingertips, done at least twice is enough. Do not be overly concerned with shampoo getting to the ends of your hair. The rinsing process will take care of this for you. The ends of the hair are inevitably the oldest part of the hair and the driest. Adding another potentially drying element increases the chance of breakage. The focus should be removing build up towards the base of the hair and not the ends.
Also try not to bundle the hair into a ball, keep the hair as straight as possible, flowing in one general direction. This reduces the likelihood of knots and will save you time when detangling.


The shampoo process is one I look forward to weekly. I do use a sulfate free shampoo quite often and a chelating shampoo once a month. Be sure to follow with a deep conditioner and your favorite oils to add moisture to the hair. What your thoughts? How often do you shampoo and what kind... feel free to share below.

Until next time! HHJ

I'm Going Natural...Attempt #2

Hello Beauties!

Please try not to roll your eyes this time around. I have really thought about this decision and I am going through with it. I have decided to go natural! Why? Frankly, I like a challenge and I want to try something new. No,  I am not on a journey to "discover" my roots and inner beauty or any other soul searching endeavor. I am quite confident in who I am as a black and beautiful black woman and I do not have warped sense of beauty. I could wear weave tomorrow, braids next week and go bald the month after that. I would still be and feel beautiful.

My hair today is very thick, shiny and healthy. Therefore, I'm not going natural to "have healthy hair".  I have not trimmed my hair since my  

12 inch cut over a year ago and my ends are still "looking fresh."

Simply put, I would like to see my natural texture. My younger sister has done it, why can't I? The decision is not an easy one, however, I am resolved. The big challenge is what will happen at 3 months post.

According to my calendar I am exactly 4 weeks post.Will I big chop at 12 weeks? Let's see. I will provide updates as often as possible.

If you have any tips and encouragement. Please feel free to share!

Until next time... Happy growing!

Happy New Year! What's your resolution?

Happy New Year Beauties!

The tradition is that we set resolutions that we hope to achieve for the new year in pursuit of growth and development. Last year my resolution was to read more books, fiction and non-fiction. I did read a few more books than the previous years. However, to say I am now the avid reader I once was is far from the truth.

The new trend for 2015 is to take the rebellious route (albeit logical) and not have a resolution at all. Some say, why wait 365 days to set new goals when we have today? Further, tomorrow is promised to no one. Others argue the approach of the new year moves one toward introspection, soul searching, and reflection.

 Whatever your decision, here's to new year of laughter, family, friends, adventures, mistakes and new memories.  We will have highs and lows because this is life. What really matters is that we learn and grow from our experiences. Therefore, when its all over one can say; I didn't just exist,  I have truly lived!

Until next time beauties! Happy growing!

Hair Care for the Holidays

Seasons Greetings Beauties!

I hope you all are having a wonderful Christmas celebration/holiday. All the dinners, church services, parties, beach limes has kept us all very busy. However, that packed schedule during this season challenges our style, hair, and make up regime a little more than usual. When speaking about hair  specifically, we tend to  use more manipulation and quick/extravagant styling both of which (often) involves heat in high frequencies including blow drying, flat ironing, and every thing else in between.

Ladies, let's be honest. The usual hair care regimen tends to be neglected. I do want to enter 2015 with healthy tresses, so here are a few of my tips that I use to guide me through the season.

Protective Styling

Now is a good time to pull out your favourite wig, install your braids or those bundles and give your hair a rest.  Wigs, weaves, cornrows, and braids are all great options for protective styling and when used  correctly can reduce stress on your hair. Don't forget a good ol' fashion bun or braid out still doesn't hurt.

Heat Protection

If you must use your heat tools, please remember to use your heat protectant. The use of a good heat protectant reduces the damage caused by heat tools such as flat irons and curling irons. Still try to use a moderate heat setting on your tools and not otherwise fry your hair.

I currently use the CHI Iron Guard 44 as my go to heat protectant. I have been using this product as a staple heat protectant for the past 4 years with no problems.

Low Manipulation

Gentle combing and brushing goes a long way. Reduce styles that put stress on your hairline such as that extra tight ponytail. Always use boar bristle brush and a wide tooth comb when styling.

Moisturize

That holding spray or styling gel may seem like its worth it right now, but you may end up paying for it later when your hair dries out and more hair is left of your back and on the floor than on your head resulting on your first setback for 2015. Find a holding spray that does not have that extra strong hold as these tend to leave your hair less dry and crunchy and the hold is removed at the stroke of a brush. I also prefer a styling/finishing paste for my edges than styling gels. My edges lay smoother  never feel dry at the end of the day.

My go to edge paste is the Chi Twisted Fabric.

Love it! It is wax based and is filled with emollients that leaves my edges soft, a little goes a long way and it is an absolute staple!

The list above is by no means exhaustive. So, feel free to share a few of yours. Let's grow together!

Until next time...happy growing :)

Chi Nourish Intense Review

Hi Beauties,

The Giovanni line of shampoo and conditioners have been staples in my hair care regimen for almost 4 years. I recently decided that  I would like to try something new not because the line was not working for me anymore, but simply because I needed a change.

I tend to do this from time to time and I have had much success with Nexxus and Mizani but, somehow I always return to Giovanni. Not to be deterred, this time, I did a little research and decided to try the Chi Nourish Intense Hydrating Silk Hair Bath Shampoo and the Nourish Intense Silk Masque Conditioner.

Shampoo 

My first impression of the shampoo is the sweet smell, almost that of bubblegum. This is a welcomed change from the unscented Giovanni line. A few stand out features of this product is that it is sulfate and paraben free and promises to gently cleanse the hair without stripping.

After a few washes, I can certainly appreciate how soft and moisturized my hair feels.  At one point I was almost tempted to detangle but I decided to wait as per usual until after deep conditioning.

Conditioner

The Silk Masque for Coarse hair is easily one of my new favorites. A little goes along way and the conditioner gave my hair great slippage. Detangling was a breeze and 30 mins of heated deep conditioning left my hair uber soft and manageable. The smell is also similar to the shampoo which is a huge plus.








Drawbacks

Both can be little heavy on the pockets ranging between US$15-30 depending on the volume you choose.

Would I buy again? Absolutely! I really love these products and they might serious contenders for the top spot. Only time will tell.

Cowashing…Water is your friend!!!

Hi Beauties!

We've been having some really hot days here in the Caribbean. Today was one of those days. It was hot, humid did I mention hot? My braid out was a little dry and I realized my hair was breaking a bit. The quickest remedy for the breakage I could think of was to rejuvenate my hair with some good old fashion H2O!

Stop the presses….what? Water on relaxed hair for many is a no, no. This my dear ladies is complete mis-education. In fact, water = moisture which in most cases is what our hair needs to stop the breakage and retain length. The current misunderstanding is that water dries out your hair and makes it prone to breakage when in fact water adds moisture to your hair especially mid-week after a main wash.

Tip 1: Use a light conditioner to condition wash (cowash) your hair while in the shower. My favorite cowash conditioner hands down is V05 moisture milks and  Elasta QP Soy Oyl conditioner. Wash your hair like you would with a shampoo and let it sit on your hair for a few minutes while you shower.  Rinse, towel dry your hair, follow up with your favorite leave ins and natural oils. Gently detangle and let your hair air dry. Moisturize and seal. Your hair will thank you!

Tip 2: Throughout the week, lightly spritz your hair with water and glycerin (a humectant which traps moisture), aloe vera juice, or rose water. These are quick and easy ways to add an extra touch of moisture to your hair especially during the hot and dry months.

Tip 3: Protect your ends from the harsh wind and sun by tucking them under wigs or through buns.

Finally, it really starts from the inside so hydrate your body by drinking water regularly throughout the day.

Until next time….HHJ!

Henna and Indigo...Good Dyes for Hair?

Hi Beauties, 

I mentioned a few blog posts ago that I coloured my hair and I got tired of it. A few weeks ago I decided to end the torture once and for all and dyed my hair black. Stop the presses! I know many of you may be thinking Dee you have now triple processed your hair. I am happy to say no...I stopped at double processing. I dyed my hair naturally with henna and indigo and I am now a happy shade of black. I have light brown streaks in certain areas of my hair but I am overall black. 

For those of you who do not know what henna and indigo are let me clarify. 

Henna 

A plant based dye that is made from dried henna leaves. They are typically grown in hot climates such as the  parts of Asia, the  Middle East, and Africa. When used correctly this natural dye is said to impart properties similar to protein on  the hair such as strengthening the strands, but note it is NOT protein.  There is a wealth of valuable information on henna,  its proper use, and DO's and DONT's.  For further information please see http://www.hennaforhair.com/freebooks/hennaforhair.pdf

 and http://www.hennaforhair.com/

Indigo

Similar to Henna, Indigo is made from the dried leave of the Indigo plant. It is the same dye that is used in denim. When mixed with water a blue dye is released. However, a variety of colours ranging from brown to black can be achieved when used with henna. Please see http://www.hennaforhair.com/indigo/index.html

Doing a henna and indigo treatment is quite tedious but it is worth it. My hair feels stronger and healthier and so far I am very happy with my colour, at first my hair was jet black and I loved it! I am hoping to do another treatment soon.

Low Manipulation Overview

Hi Beauties!

Let’s talk about low manipulation styling. One of the mantras in the hair care community is that low manipulation styling reduces the amount of daily stress applied to the hair through less combing, brushing, and heat application.  Low manipulation styles are not to be confused with protective styles. In most cases your hair and particularly the ends of your hair will out to the mercy of the sun, wind, and everyday activity unlike protective styles where majority of your hair is tucked away.

 Popular low manipulation styles include:

•  Braid outs
•  Twist outs
•   Bantu knots
•   Flexi rod curls

Low manipulation styles are versatile giving you varying degrees of curls depending on the style you choose. However, many ladies shy away from these form of styling due to high potential for frizzy hair. The good news is that can be avoided using a few simple tips.

1.       Moisturize and seal

Using a water based products will add the much needed moisture to the hair shaft and sealing with natural oils such as extra virgin coconut oil and extra virgin olive oil will lock in the moisture. Long term use will reduce dry brittle hair and reduce breakage. Your curls will also look more nourished, bouncy, and feel soft to the touch.

2.       Use Damp hair

Protective styling on damp (not wet hair) especially for relaxed ladies allows the hair to cling together and form a mold (i.e. the curl      pattern) unlike dry hair. Natural ladies may have less problems with the hair forming a mold and are more flexible with doing braid outs on dry hair. In general using a small spray bottle to lightly mist the hair with water, aloe vera juice, or rose water should do the trick.

3.       Do not over separate

When doing the take down first make sure your hair is completely dry; if not your hair is likely to frizz. Gently separate each lock of hair yo reveal those beautiful voluminous curls. Mostly importantly, try not to over separate your hair as this can lead to frizz.

4.       Practice makes better

You will find in the early stages of doing a braid out that no two braid outs will be the same. Keep practising and perfecting your technique to achieve the perfect style for you.  

My Regimen

Hi Beauties!

So I have been getting many questions about the products I use in hair. Before I go any further it is important that I point out one major point.

Products DO NOT grow your hair!!!

It is important to note that as long as you are breathing your hair grows. Much like everything else in your body it will only stop working once pass away. I know there are many naysayers who will beg to differ considering they may have only had neck or shoulder length hair (short hair runs in the family).  I am 98% percent certain that the length of the hair has to do with breakage due to several factors such as harsh manipulation, lack of protein, and lack on proper moisture just to name a few and not genetics. The human hair growth phase is long enough to take one's hair beyond neck and shoulder length. Our curl pattern is our achille's heel in that the tight coils and kinks inhibit moisture from passing down out strands. Also our hair type is very fine contrary to what we may think making it very easy to break. Start by ditching that standard comb fine tooth we get in the market replace with a wide tooth comb, trash the hair grease (Blue Magic and like), and lay off the harsh sulfate containing shampoo.  Substitute for milder shampoos (preferably sulfate free), wash your hair more often (water is your friend), moisturize and seal your hair. I promise you will notice an immediate difference in the texture and fullness of your hair. Later on even the length, your hair grows only 1/4 to 1/2 inch every month  so you will not see a major difference in length overnight. Remember products will only help in hair maintenance. Pay attention to the words in bold and become familiar with them. You do not have to look for the exact products I use,everyone is different what works for me may not work for you.  I am providing my regimen only as a guide. Happy Hair Growing!

Clarify     ~ 1x per month with Joico KPak Chelating and Clarifying Shampoo

Shampoo ~ Giovanni Deep Moisture Shampoo

Condition ~ Giovanni Deeper Moisture Conditioner

Cowash   ~  1-2x per week with VO5 moisture milks conditioner

Moisturize and Seal ~ as needed no less than every 2 days with my own   moisturizing spritz of 100% natural shea butter, coconut oil, AVJ, Jojoba Oil (winter) Shea moisture curl enhancing smoothie ( Spring and Summer). Seal with Jojoba oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, or argan oil.

Deep Conditioner ~ Nexxus Humectress with fav oils (castor oil, EVCO, Olive Oil) honey, and Silk Amino Acids

Protein Conditioner- Giovanni Nutrafix Hair Reconstructor/Aphogee 2-Step Treatment

Leave In Conditioner ~ Giovanni's Weightless Direct Leave In

Trim ~ Every six months, dust regularly, search and destroy regularly

Relaxer ~ Olive Oil (Regular)/ Dark and Lovely (Regular)

Additive ~ Silk Amino Acids added to my conditioner 

Guess Who's Back?!?!?!

Hi Beauties!

Yes believe it or not I am back! After almost a year I am back :). Between being sick, going to school, and traveling, lots of traveling I really did not have the time to blog or do videos. I did slack a little bit about my hair care (just a little) but I am back on track. Last year I hated the V shape my hair was forming so I cut approximately 5 inches off and went back to shoulder length. It was the best decision I ever made! I deep conditioned faithfully, went  to Jamaica and got some homemade castor oil and the rest was history! My hair has been growing consistently thick over the last few months. Though I have not done an official length check I am guessing that I am somewhere around APL. Regardless I am proud of myself considering the slacking off. A major regret I had is that I streaked my hair a few months ago. My hair's texture has since changed to one that I greatly dislike and cannot recover. I have not had any major breakage but I did a henna and indigo treatment and I am almost back to black. Life happened and I could not keep the indigo in my hair as long as I should have. Anyhow, no complaints! This is something I don't see me doing again...anytime soon. Never say never but I have no desire to do so presently. Along the way I have managed to convert a few naysayers who never believed in healthy hair care so I am happy. Well beauties Lady Dee is back! I am more than excited to share my hair journey with you guys! In the next few posts I will be giving you guys a quick synopsis of what I have been doing to my hair over the past few months to get you up to speed. Then we'll move forward. Stay tuned pics will be coming soon. I am also going to be re-vamping my youtube channel so look out for that also. Right now I am rocking one of my favorite go to  low manipulation styles...a braid out but it's raining :(. Hopefully the humidity doesn't get to me. Till next time..loveeees...Happy Hair Journey!!!

Lady Dee

Air Drying

So today I decided to take a break from rollersetting...partly because I'm lazy, partly because its hot and I was not feeling too excited about sitting under my bonnet for 45 to an hour today. So here I am nice flowy bouncy air dried hair. Yes ladies! It is possible to have frizz free air dried hair. Considering it is like the primary dogma of the hair care world I think it is essential that at the very least we all know how to have air dried hair so we can exercise our options. At most turn it into practice and incorporate it regularly into your regimen. Here are a few tid bits and tricks that have made me successful.

• Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner- its always best to keep the moisture in check to achieve and maintain good air dried hair I've found in my experience. This is of course with the idea in mind that the protein balance is also taken care of. However, I have to place much emphasis on moisture. 
• Deep condition- you had to see this one coming. Most definitely do not skip on weekly deep conditioning. It should be a primary in your hair regimen anyways. It is one the main foundation to keeping well moisturized hair throughout the week.
• Leave In Conditioner- A good leave-in is also very essential to maintaining  air dried hair.
• ph Balance/ Medium Porosity- Many of you might like saying huh? wuh? Yes. I'm serious ladies and gents. This is something that many of us overlook or don't even know about. If our cuticles are not closed we are more likely to lose the moisture we added through deep conditioning and all other previous steps. The end result dry, frizzy hair. Maintaining good pH is essential for maintaining moisture and we have the added bonus of soft shiny hair. If you think your hair may be too porous may I recommend one of or the combination of the following : ACV rinses bi- weekly, aloe vera juice spritz, Roux Porosity control line of products, or a good ol' cold final rinse.
• A satin scarf to lay down your edges (de-tangle and run your fingers through your hair throughout the drying process)
• Remember to moisturize and seal at the end

 My hair is just washed and about 95% dry...it has not yet been moisturized and sealed.

Join me next time where I'll go further in depth about pH levels and hair porosity. Till next time! Happy Hair Growing!

Ode to my Clarifying Shampoo...

Hi Loves!

As you all know by now I only recently started my hair journey...I'm still a newbie by a long shot. Many things are new to me. One of those things is to figure out how to listen to what my hair is telling me and go with my instincts. I started using the Tresemme moisture rich conditioner as my cowash conditioner. Let it be known that I am absolutely in love with this product! The problem is it is laden with silicones and I cowash quite often as many as 2-3 times per week. That quickly lead to serious build up...my hair was smooth and soft but inflexible when dry. I also use Hair One cleansing conditioner that I thought was getting rid of extra dirt and grime...I am now convinced that it was not. I know...I know many of you are like well Dee just clarify you knucklehead. There is a perfectly good explanation for that.... I think. I use the Ion  botanical clarifying shampoo the last time I used  it my hair was so soft and mushy so limp and almost seemingly rotten. It broke to the touch that in effect was my very first example of moisture overload. :( Needless to say, I was horrified and quickly grabbed for my Aphogee 2 step protein treatment barely wanting to touch my hair. 45 mins later my hair was sufficiently strengthened, breakage stopped and I could breathe easy. The bed news is I have since been conditioned to associate mushy hair with Ion...I know that really is not the case but I still panic thinking about it. Fast forward to this week, I knew I could not put it off any longer, I had to clarify, it has been roughly about  3 months since my hair had a good lather and I decided to take the plunge. I lathered my hair...not once but twice! On top of that I lathered with my new love Giovanni  Triple Treat Tea Tree Invigorating Shampoo, followed up with  Giovanni  50:50 conditioner, DC'd,  then ACV rinsed. My hair feels amazing! So soft, so light, bouncy, I cant keep my hands out of it. I am due for a protein treatment next week and I can't wait!

• Educational tid bit for the day: clarifying shampoos are meant to be deep cleansers that get rid of the build up that is on the shaft of the hair. This is good especially for those who love silicones or are heavy handed. They typically contain sodium/ammonium lauryl/laureth sulfates. As a general rule the sodium laureth sulfate is the milder version of sulfates and  is less harsh on the hair while cleansing. You want to do this only once or twice per month preferably once).