Let's Talk Shampoo

Hi Beauties,

You may be wondering shampoo? Hmm...that is fairly simple! Wet hair, squeeze shampoo into hands, lather, rinse, repeat, voila! NOT!

In reality, there are a few things to consider including the kind of shampoo, shampoo techniques, and frequency. Let's break this down shall we?

To Shampoo or not to Shampoo? 

This is an ongoing debate in the hair community. Some shampoo from once a week to once a month even twice a year while doing condition washes (co wash) in between.  Others have migrated to cleansing conditioners and have completely done away with shampoos altogether.  My answer, it depends.

Choosing how often you shampoo should depend on the product use. Do you use heavy silicones and slab on the moisturizer and oils several times a week? If yes, you may consider using shampoo at least once per week especially if you use use heavy silicones. These can weigh the hair down and cause a significant amount of product build up over time. If you are light on products  then you may be able to get away with shampoo washes every 2 weeks or once a month with regular co-washes.

Shampoo Types

All shampoos are not created equally and vary in their cleansing capabilities. For instance, there are sulfate free shampoos that do mild cleansing and are good for weekly use (my favorites). There are also clarifying shampoos that are good for bi weekly uses and even monthly uses for removing excessive product build up and chlorine after a day at the pool. These are usually stripping and be used with caution. For even deeper cleaning there are chelating shampoos that remove mineral deposits along with product build up. These are particularly helpful for those who cleanse with hard water and use kit relaxers. Finally, there are neutralizing shampoos that lowers the pH of the hair and bring it to a neutral ph7, essentially stopping the relaxer process in its tracks.

The burning question  is which one should I use? The answer, it all depends on the intended outcome. In general beware of sulfate shampoos, these are the most damaging to our hair types because of its stripping tendencies. These shampoos leaves the hair and scalp dry and should not be used too often.

Shampoo Techniques

The most common mistake we make is to  apply shampoo all over the hair, bundle the hair on top of heads and wash vigorously. Rinse, repeat until squeaky clean. Essentially, this is the hair's version of overkill. A quarter size amount of shampoo applied to the scalp and a gentle massage used only by the pads of our fingertips, done at least twice is enough. Do not be overly concerned with shampoo getting to the ends of your hair. The rinsing process will take care of this for you. The ends of the hair are inevitably the oldest part of the hair and the driest. Adding another potentially drying element increases the chance of breakage. The focus should be removing build up towards the base of the hair and not the ends.
Also try not to bundle the hair into a ball, keep the hair as straight as possible, flowing in one general direction. This reduces the likelihood of knots and will save you time when detangling.


The shampoo process is one I look forward to weekly. I do use a sulfate free shampoo quite often and a chelating shampoo once a month. Be sure to follow with a deep conditioner and your favorite oils to add moisture to the hair. What your thoughts? How often do you shampoo and what kind... feel free to share below.

Until next time! HHJ

Cowashing…Water is your friend!!!

Hi Beauties!

We've been having some really hot days here in the Caribbean. Today was one of those days. It was hot, humid did I mention hot? My braid out was a little dry and I realized my hair was breaking a bit. The quickest remedy for the breakage I could think of was to rejuvenate my hair with some good old fashion H2O!

Stop the presses….what? Water on relaxed hair for many is a no, no. This my dear ladies is complete mis-education. In fact, water = moisture which in most cases is what our hair needs to stop the breakage and retain length. The current misunderstanding is that water dries out your hair and makes it prone to breakage when in fact water adds moisture to your hair especially mid-week after a main wash.

Tip 1: Use a light conditioner to condition wash (cowash) your hair while in the shower. My favorite cowash conditioner hands down is V05 moisture milks and  Elasta QP Soy Oyl conditioner. Wash your hair like you would with a shampoo and let it sit on your hair for a few minutes while you shower.  Rinse, towel dry your hair, follow up with your favorite leave ins and natural oils. Gently detangle and let your hair air dry. Moisturize and seal. Your hair will thank you!

Tip 2: Throughout the week, lightly spritz your hair with water and glycerin (a humectant which traps moisture), aloe vera juice, or rose water. These are quick and easy ways to add an extra touch of moisture to your hair especially during the hot and dry months.

Tip 3: Protect your ends from the harsh wind and sun by tucking them under wigs or through buns.

Finally, it really starts from the inside so hydrate your body by drinking water regularly throughout the day.

Until next time….HHJ!