Why Did I Go Natural? A Simple Answer...

Hello Beauties!

As many of you already know I did the  big chop (BC) at the beginning of this year. I get asked a lot why on earth would I do something seemingly so drastic. No one really believed me that I was actually serious "this time." To answer your question, my short answer is duh, it was the obvious next step. The long answer is....

How it all began

As an international student living on my own in Oklahoma, finding a black hairdresser who could "do hair good" AND was affordable was next to impossible. As a college student hair maintenance was a lifestyle I simply could not afford but still desired. I found myself making many trips to the local beauty supply stores buying relaxers in a box and "how to", "hair care", "black hair" were keywords that I googled all too often. 

Eventually, I came across multiple hair forums and became gradually interested in this healthy hair journey fad. It was a new world! I was completely intrigued and became completely invested in my hair journey. I went through the phases, became a product junkie, obsessed over labels, banned silicones and mineral oils, deep conditioned weekly, trimmed quarterly, joined youtube  and experimented even more. My hair grew and thickened and I loved every minute of it. 

 True to form, I became bored and colored it, cut it, then cut it some more. Throughout my HHJ I had very little tolerance for the "natural hair nazis" as they were called the blogs (we'll discuss that later). However, as I matured, I started toying with the idea of "going natural" for simply no other reason than I was bored or so I thought. Regardless,  the actual thought frightened me. I was very afraid, I had so many what ifs, and many detractors that the actual step took me quite a while.  Admittedly it took me three tries but one day I did it....

AND NOW I HAVE REGRETS  

I regret that I questioned myself. I regret that I listened to people, I regret that I waited so long! 

I AM OBSESSED! 

 I'm obsessed with my hair, i'm obsessed with my curls,  i'm obsessed with my afrocentric look. I get asked if I texturized my hair a lot and I proudly answer no. I have  taken the same principles I learned with relaxed hair on my natural hair journey and I look forward to this new phase. 

The day I decided to big chop and actually went through with it was such a moment of empowerment that I struggle to describe. You have to experience it to truly understand. I finally did the big chop and I regret not doing it sooner! 

So why did I do it? 

It's all apart of my journey. I did it partly because I wanted to prove the naysayers wrong, I did it because I loved the look, I did it because IT FELT RIGHT. I choose not to be philosophical about it but I can say this experience is truly grounding. Will I ever relax again? Never say never, but at this moment I have no desire to do so. 

What a braid out! Thank your satin strips!

Hi Beauties,

Have you all but given up on braid out because your curls are never as defined as you'd want? Is your hair not thick enough? Not long enough and you always end up with a failed braid out? Well worry no more! The use of satin strips should put your worries to rest. A few years ago I came across this technique from ZanandRob and Nina Pruitt and suffice it to say, the use of satin strips for my braid out have made my life easier. My go to braid out consists of two jumbo braids that yield volumnous  curls the next day for easy styling. The pineapple method also makes this style last a few days. I especially love this hair style because it blends the two textures quite easily and is making the transition process a little simpler.

What will you need?

• Satin strips (cut to a length and width that you desire) 
• Water based moisturizer 
• Spray bottle filled with your favorite liquid (to dampen hair) 
• Oil (for sealing) 
• Silk/satin scarf
• Hair ties/clip

Over Night Procedure 

• Part hair into four sections and separate using clips/hair ties
• Moisturize and seal each section
• Lightly dampen hair  
• Braid hair in desired style incorporating satin strips  
• Once done, cover hair with satin/silk scarf

The Take Down

• Its best to place your favorite oil on your fingertips during the take down process 
• Gently remove the satin strips and separate the curls 
• Proceed to style your hair as desired 

(Pictures coming soon)

Do you have and questions or tips? Feel free to share below.

Until next time. HHJ! 

Let's Talk Shampoo

Hi Beauties,

You may be wondering shampoo? Hmm...that is fairly simple! Wet hair, squeeze shampoo into hands, lather, rinse, repeat, voila! NOT!

In reality, there are a few things to consider including the kind of shampoo, shampoo techniques, and frequency. Let's break this down shall we?

To Shampoo or not to Shampoo? 

This is an ongoing debate in the hair community. Some shampoo from once a week to once a month even twice a year while doing condition washes (co wash) in between.  Others have migrated to cleansing conditioners and have completely done away with shampoos altogether.  My answer, it depends.

Choosing how often you shampoo should depend on the product use. Do you use heavy silicones and slab on the moisturizer and oils several times a week? If yes, you may consider using shampoo at least once per week especially if you use use heavy silicones. These can weigh the hair down and cause a significant amount of product build up over time. If you are light on products  then you may be able to get away with shampoo washes every 2 weeks or once a month with regular co-washes.

Shampoo Types

All shampoos are not created equally and vary in their cleansing capabilities. For instance, there are sulfate free shampoos that do mild cleansing and are good for weekly use (my favorites). There are also clarifying shampoos that are good for bi weekly uses and even monthly uses for removing excessive product build up and chlorine after a day at the pool. These are usually stripping and be used with caution. For even deeper cleaning there are chelating shampoos that remove mineral deposits along with product build up. These are particularly helpful for those who cleanse with hard water and use kit relaxers. Finally, there are neutralizing shampoos that lowers the pH of the hair and bring it to a neutral ph7, essentially stopping the relaxer process in its tracks.

The burning question  is which one should I use? The answer, it all depends on the intended outcome. In general beware of sulfate shampoos, these are the most damaging to our hair types because of its stripping tendencies. These shampoos leaves the hair and scalp dry and should not be used too often.

Shampoo Techniques

The most common mistake we make is to  apply shampoo all over the hair, bundle the hair on top of heads and wash vigorously. Rinse, repeat until squeaky clean. Essentially, this is the hair's version of overkill. A quarter size amount of shampoo applied to the scalp and a gentle massage used only by the pads of our fingertips, done at least twice is enough. Do not be overly concerned with shampoo getting to the ends of your hair. The rinsing process will take care of this for you. The ends of the hair are inevitably the oldest part of the hair and the driest. Adding another potentially drying element increases the chance of breakage. The focus should be removing build up towards the base of the hair and not the ends.
Also try not to bundle the hair into a ball, keep the hair as straight as possible, flowing in one general direction. This reduces the likelihood of knots and will save you time when detangling.


The shampoo process is one I look forward to weekly. I do use a sulfate free shampoo quite often and a chelating shampoo once a month. Be sure to follow with a deep conditioner and your favorite oils to add moisture to the hair. What your thoughts? How often do you shampoo and what kind... feel free to share below.

Until next time! HHJ

I'm Going Natural...Attempt #2

Hello Beauties!

Please try not to roll your eyes this time around. I have really thought about this decision and I am going through with it. I have decided to go natural! Why? Frankly, I like a challenge and I want to try something new. No,  I am not on a journey to "discover" my roots and inner beauty or any other soul searching endeavor. I am quite confident in who I am as a black and beautiful black woman and I do not have warped sense of beauty. I could wear weave tomorrow, braids next week and go bald the month after that. I would still be and feel beautiful.

My hair today is very thick, shiny and healthy. Therefore, I'm not going natural to "have healthy hair".  I have not trimmed my hair since my  

12 inch cut over a year ago and my ends are still "looking fresh."

Simply put, I would like to see my natural texture. My younger sister has done it, why can't I? The decision is not an easy one, however, I am resolved. The big challenge is what will happen at 3 months post.

According to my calendar I am exactly 4 weeks post.Will I big chop at 12 weeks? Let's see. I will provide updates as often as possible.

If you have any tips and encouragement. Please feel free to share!

Until next time... Happy growing!

Hair Care for the Holidays

Seasons Greetings Beauties!

I hope you all are having a wonderful Christmas celebration/holiday. All the dinners, church services, parties, beach limes has kept us all very busy. However, that packed schedule during this season challenges our style, hair, and make up regime a little more than usual. When speaking about hair  specifically, we tend to  use more manipulation and quick/extravagant styling both of which (often) involves heat in high frequencies including blow drying, flat ironing, and every thing else in between.

Ladies, let's be honest. The usual hair care regimen tends to be neglected. I do want to enter 2015 with healthy tresses, so here are a few of my tips that I use to guide me through the season.

Protective Styling

Now is a good time to pull out your favourite wig, install your braids or those bundles and give your hair a rest.  Wigs, weaves, cornrows, and braids are all great options for protective styling and when used  correctly can reduce stress on your hair. Don't forget a good ol' fashion bun or braid out still doesn't hurt.

Heat Protection

If you must use your heat tools, please remember to use your heat protectant. The use of a good heat protectant reduces the damage caused by heat tools such as flat irons and curling irons. Still try to use a moderate heat setting on your tools and not otherwise fry your hair.

I currently use the CHI Iron Guard 44 as my go to heat protectant. I have been using this product as a staple heat protectant for the past 4 years with no problems.

Low Manipulation

Gentle combing and brushing goes a long way. Reduce styles that put stress on your hairline such as that extra tight ponytail. Always use boar bristle brush and a wide tooth comb when styling.

Moisturize

That holding spray or styling gel may seem like its worth it right now, but you may end up paying for it later when your hair dries out and more hair is left of your back and on the floor than on your head resulting on your first setback for 2015. Find a holding spray that does not have that extra strong hold as these tend to leave your hair less dry and crunchy and the hold is removed at the stroke of a brush. I also prefer a styling/finishing paste for my edges than styling gels. My edges lay smoother  never feel dry at the end of the day.

My go to edge paste is the Chi Twisted Fabric.

Love it! It is wax based and is filled with emollients that leaves my edges soft, a little goes a long way and it is an absolute staple!

The list above is by no means exhaustive. So, feel free to share a few of yours. Let's grow together!

Until next time...happy growing :)

Cowashing…Water is your friend!!!

Hi Beauties!

We've been having some really hot days here in the Caribbean. Today was one of those days. It was hot, humid did I mention hot? My braid out was a little dry and I realized my hair was breaking a bit. The quickest remedy for the breakage I could think of was to rejuvenate my hair with some good old fashion H2O!

Stop the presses….what? Water on relaxed hair for many is a no, no. This my dear ladies is complete mis-education. In fact, water = moisture which in most cases is what our hair needs to stop the breakage and retain length. The current misunderstanding is that water dries out your hair and makes it prone to breakage when in fact water adds moisture to your hair especially mid-week after a main wash.

Tip 1: Use a light conditioner to condition wash (cowash) your hair while in the shower. My favorite cowash conditioner hands down is V05 moisture milks and  Elasta QP Soy Oyl conditioner. Wash your hair like you would with a shampoo and let it sit on your hair for a few minutes while you shower.  Rinse, towel dry your hair, follow up with your favorite leave ins and natural oils. Gently detangle and let your hair air dry. Moisturize and seal. Your hair will thank you!

Tip 2: Throughout the week, lightly spritz your hair with water and glycerin (a humectant which traps moisture), aloe vera juice, or rose water. These are quick and easy ways to add an extra touch of moisture to your hair especially during the hot and dry months.

Tip 3: Protect your ends from the harsh wind and sun by tucking them under wigs or through buns.

Finally, it really starts from the inside so hydrate your body by drinking water regularly throughout the day.

Until next time….HHJ!

Low Manipulation Overview

Hi Beauties!

Let’s talk about low manipulation styling. One of the mantras in the hair care community is that low manipulation styling reduces the amount of daily stress applied to the hair through less combing, brushing, and heat application.  Low manipulation styles are not to be confused with protective styles. In most cases your hair and particularly the ends of your hair will out to the mercy of the sun, wind, and everyday activity unlike protective styles where majority of your hair is tucked away.

 Popular low manipulation styles include:

•  Braid outs
•  Twist outs
•   Bantu knots
•   Flexi rod curls

Low manipulation styles are versatile giving you varying degrees of curls depending on the style you choose. However, many ladies shy away from these form of styling due to high potential for frizzy hair. The good news is that can be avoided using a few simple tips.

1.       Moisturize and seal

Using a water based products will add the much needed moisture to the hair shaft and sealing with natural oils such as extra virgin coconut oil and extra virgin olive oil will lock in the moisture. Long term use will reduce dry brittle hair and reduce breakage. Your curls will also look more nourished, bouncy, and feel soft to the touch.

2.       Use Damp hair

Protective styling on damp (not wet hair) especially for relaxed ladies allows the hair to cling together and form a mold (i.e. the curl      pattern) unlike dry hair. Natural ladies may have less problems with the hair forming a mold and are more flexible with doing braid outs on dry hair. In general using a small spray bottle to lightly mist the hair with water, aloe vera juice, or rose water should do the trick.

3.       Do not over separate

When doing the take down first make sure your hair is completely dry; if not your hair is likely to frizz. Gently separate each lock of hair yo reveal those beautiful voluminous curls. Mostly importantly, try not to over separate your hair as this can lead to frizz.

4.       Practice makes better

You will find in the early stages of doing a braid out that no two braid outs will be the same. Keep practising and perfecting your technique to achieve the perfect style for you.